Article by Devin Gilliland

If a fish or coral in your saltwater aquarium contracts a disease, it is essential that you are able to identify this right away and quarantine any infected livestock, or you will quickly have an epidemic on your hands which will be distressing. Of course, not all diseases will be fatal to your livestock, and most are treatable. But, to prevent all of your livestock from perishing, you must act quickly. Here are some tips to help.

One of the more common conditions among fish when you first create your aquarium is called delayed mortality syndrome, or DMS. DMS occurs to a fish when new environmental conditions are thrust upon it like changes in temperature, oxygen level, or chemicals in different water then what they were transferred from, so all of your fish will be susceptible when first introduced into your tank. This condition is not the problem in and of itself, as it is not contagious and only serves to weaken the immune system of the fish.

It is important that when a fish seems to exhibit symptoms of a disease that your first step is to check all of your water factors such as ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, alkalinity, and anything else that, if at the wrong level, might harm the fish rather than provide a safe environment. If you have any doubt at all, change the water. If the problem was your levels instead of an actual disease, then you will see a change in your livestock

To ensure a thriving marine life in your saltwater aquarium, regular aquarium maintenance is a must. You have to make sure that water in your aquarium meets the requirements of the fish, plants, and other organisms living in the artificial environment you’ve recreated. Aside from making sure that live aquarium rocks are cured and safe for your fish and that the water is free of chloramines and other contaminants, another crucial part of aquarium maintenance is to make sure that the salinity of the water is at its proper levels. Needless to say, maintaining the water parameters at its optimum levels help ensure a healthy and thriving aquarium. In which case, refractometers are the best tools for measuring the gravity and salinity of aquarium water. They are easy to use and do provide an accurate results from readings compared to hydrometers.

How does it work?

Even at low salt levels, serious aquarium hobbyists have proven that refractometers do work.

This precision optical instrument is used by placing one to two drops of sample water into the prism glass of the optical instrument. A syringe without the needle or a drop can be used for taking a sample and placing it onto the measuring surface. The light that passes through it will bend, and the bent light is then reflected on an internal scale that you can check through the eyepiece, with lenses that magnify the tiny scale. Depending on the refractometer you’re using, you can turn the knob until it becomes visible and the scale appears more clearly.

The top of the scale or meter is blue, and the lower portion is white. The part where colors meet, where blue turns white or white turns blue, determines the gravity and salinity, depending on the refractometer model you’re using. You can easily control the salinity level by adding distilled or R.O. water to reduce it should the reading tell you that it’s too high, or add synthetic or natural saltwater to raise the level. Of course, the water change, as a standard for aquarium maintenance, should be limited to 20% saltwater.

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Article by Morris Higgens

Awareness: Don’t have confidence in just just one person’s guidance in this pastime. There are a good deal of perfect techniques and improper techniques to do items in this pastime. Investigation, investigate, homework! Join a number of forums and a native club, browse approximately and most importantly get concerned and request problems. You’ll quickly launch seeing a consensus close to what functions (and what doesn’t) that will preserve you time, stress and wealth.

These three virtues are essential in your accomplishment, so invariably hold them in mind when beginning this journey. A good number of men and women get turned off to the pastime considering that men and women say it’s as well expensive. While there is plenty of costly scarce fish and corals, cutting edge know-how and hundreds of merchandise marketed as a “will have to have” to contend with, you can get an good tank up and jogging for far less than you believe that.

Salt Creep in Aquariums and How to Deal With It

Saltwater aquariums will practical experience salt creep, there is no way all around it. You will in all probability notice that it is most excellent to not let salt creep get out of command. Salt creep can without delay grow to be cumbersome to clean if you allow it go. Salt will develop up on major hardware also, and can hamper effectiveness. Salt will develop up on heaters. Salt will put together up on your protein skimmer. Salt creep will make up on your aquarium hood and lighting hardware. I could continue to keep going, but you get the strategy.

Salt will fall into the carpet, if you have carpet around your tank. Salt is difficult to clear out of the carpet if it builds up to the point where by it turns into a thick crust. Ugh. This is specifically a hazard if there is dripping or leaking from your tank or tank hardware.

Marine Aquariums

There are a number of lights possibilities but the most popular novice lights fixtures contain Electrical power compacts (Computer). You can increase a variety of corals underneath PC’s. If you make a decision to advance in the pastime and graduate to SPS coral, then your lighting will have to be upgraded to T5′s, Halides, or LED’s.

Hang on back again (HOB) filters, canister filters, and bio balls are not endorsed to reef tanks as they turned out to be nitrate factories and full with your display tank (DT).

The Rest Aquariums Can Deliver

Older members of society who had been presented access to an aquarium filled with fish had appreciably reduce blood strain numbers as nicely. Viewing fish and their tranquil movement in the water has also calmed small children suffering from varieties of hyperactivity issues. Dental patients who underwent hypnosis versus an aquarium also skilled equivalent advantages from watching fish. It’s no wonder that doctor’s offices and waiting rooms of all types ordinarily have a tank of some sort with loads of fish in them. Apart from decreasing blood stress, it is only entertaining to see the fishes’ activity.

Reports have also concluded that seniors suffering from Alzheimer’s practical knowledge a quantity of health and fitness advantages from viewing fish activity in ponds, aquariums, and the like. Some have gone as much as to incorporate a drinking water garden in their property to make it easy for for this. Alzheimer individuals consumed a little more food, and ended up needing less dietary supplements immediately after placing an aquarium in the dining room or a pond exterior in a backyard location. Bodily aggressive behaviors also reduced noticeably after viewing the fish.

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Article by richard

The type of lighting that we will select for use in our saltwater aquarium is largely dependant upon the grouping of livestock that we will select to inhabit the tank. Regular cycles of light are commonly used to simulate day and night for fish and invertebrates. This encourages a feel of a natural environment among our livestock, cultivating the proper periods of rest and similar such circumstances that are most conducive to their successful and healthy adaptations to our aquariums.

Tanks containing only fish and live rock do not commonly require overly specific lighting techniques. However, invertebrates and the required propagation of various forms of algae that are commonly needed indeed calls for more specific and customized lighting. Choices for lighting our tanks include natural sunlight, Light Emitting Diode (LED), various forms of fluorescent bulbs, and metal halide lights.

Natural sunlight is only effective as a light source for a saltwater aquarium in geographic areas located in the vicinity of the equator. This is due to the levels of intensity of sunlight found in such areas. Such aquarist techniques involving the use of sunlight and in the vicinity of the equator are only implemented among large reef tanks. In tanks that are much more commonly found among hobbyists throughout the world, natural sunlight is avoided as a light source as it is potentially detrimental to many forms of livestock for a variety of reasons.

LED sources have a great deal of potential. The jury is somewhat still out on the extent of their practicality and effectiveness, however, so it can depend on which expert we ask as to how they will evaluate LED. One way or the other, the aquarist community would be well served to keep a watchful eye on evolving technological developments among LED light sources, as implications currently include advances in lighting schedules, simulations of lunar lighting, and even the effective simulation of cloud coverage.

Different types of fluorescent bulbs all have about the same intensity, but it is their various shapes and reflectors that result in their unique specifications. The newer fluorescents have improved reflectors, allowing more amounts of light into the aquarium than in years past. The more recently designed bulbs are a bit more costly to maintain than their predecessors, so some aquarists continue to use traditional fluorescent lighting sources.

Metal halide lights are comparable in practicality to fluorescent lighting. Many aquarists consider the primary difference to be that metal halide may be concentrated into specific areas of the tank while fluorescent light is distributed evenly. Metal halide lighting systems are usually more of a financial investment than fluorescent lights, but are required for certain reef tanks.

Overall, it will depend on the specific types of livestock that we desire to maintain as to the importance of our choice for lighting. This is of course directly related to the amount that we should be willing to invest in our lighting and the extents that we will go to achieve and maintain our optimal light conditions.

Article by Richard Gilliland

For many years, the needs and requirements of many types of corals were largely unknown or commonly misunderstood. This resulted in these intriguing life forms being virtually impossible to maintain in aquariums for any prolonged periods of time. However, more recent years have included significant advancements in understandings of corals. We are now able to take advantage of the knowledge gained through relatively recent research, as well as benefit from what hobby saltwater aquarists of yesteryear learned through their experiences.

A popular tank variety of coral is Actonodiscus, or Mushroom. They do not adapt well to neither bright lighting nor heavy currents, so they are often quite well suited for the typical saltwater aquarium. As a matter of fact, their optimum conditions include both fluorescent lighting as well as minimal water movement.

It should be taken into consideration, however, that the Mushroom coral should not be placed next to certain other types of invertebrates and corals. The Mushroom may have detrimental effects on such life forms, and the relevant issues should be thoroughly researched prior to reaching a conclusion about adding the Mushroom to our tank.

Some of the most easily maintained corals and therefore most commonly found in home aquariums include members of what is known as the Polyp family. These include Star, Green Star, and Daisy Polyps. They adapt well to both intense and low level lighting, as well as thrive in a variety of types of currents. These interesting life forms are sensitive, however, to iodine and aluminum oxide, both of which are often found in certain phosphate-removing sponges. The Polyp family is very much considered, however, to be very good starter corals.

Another popular member of the Polyp family is a coral known as Palythoa, more commonly referred to as Sea Mat or Button Polyps, due to its fast growth and appearance. Palythoa has a high reproductive rate and looks like many small circles, or buttons, placed beside one another.

Cladiella, more commonly known as Finger Leather or Colt, are among the most beautiful and adaptable corals that we might place in our aquariums. This colorful and attractive coral responds well to wide ranges of lighting conditions and water currents. Interestingly and seemingly almost miraculously appropriately, however, Cladiella grows optimally in moderate light and current.

A consideration of corals that are appropriate for aquariums would not be complete without the mention of Lobophyllia and Symphyllia. These include several specific types of corals and a wide variety of names of which they are more commonly known. Due to their diverse range of appearances and native locations, more popularly known names include Large Flower Coral and Pacific Cactus Coral, among others.

Article by richard

Once a decision has been made to create and maintain a saltwater aquarium, we can begin considering some choices related to specifically what type of aquarium we might choose to own. Some hobby aquarists choose to identify their aquariums based upon the types of livestock that are used to inhabit their tanks, while some other aquarists choose to classify their tanks based upon the temperature level that is maintained in the water.

A tropical marine tank is the most commonly found type of aquarium. As the name suggests, the temperature is relatively warm, usually about 30 degrees Celsius, which comes out to about 80 degrees Fahrenheit. A warmer tank typically requires much lower levels of skill, knowledge, and experience than do colder tanks. They are therefore universally considered to be the most suitable choices for beginner aquarists.

Tropical tanks often consist of livestock such as reef or fish, and the fish are commonly obtained through pet stores and similar such commercial suppliers. An abundance of warm water fish and additional types of livestock are readily available and easily accessible. However, this type of aquarium tends to be absent of any significant amounts of plankton that are eaten by filter feeders, so this should of course be taken into account while making our choices about populating the tank.

Contrastingly, colder tanks are much less common among hobbyists due to the comparative complexity of the tanks and the limited choices of livestock. The temperatures of a cold marine tank generally range from 10 to 24 degrees Celsius, or 50 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

These aquariums are often considerably less visually appealing than warmer tanks, as their inhabitants are typically found at much lower ocean depths than the colorful livestock that is typical among the tropical tanks. Choices of livestock for cold water aquariums is pretty much limited to fish and crustaceans. These kinds of livestock are rarely found among commercial suppliers. This results in aquarists who maintain cold tanks often being left to rely upon physically acquiring their livestock via their own means, further adding to the levels of skills and resources that are necessary.

Furthermore, appropriate livestock for cold tanks usually have rather specific dietary requirements. However, such fish are often quite hardy, and cold tanks are less costly to maintain than tropical tanks. If the aquarist possesses the required expertise and abilities to populate and maintain the tank, it might indeed be an appropriate choice.

As we go about conducting our research and making our decisions related to our saltwater aquariums, we should take the time to enjoy and benefit from the knowledge we are gaining and the like-minded people we are meeting along the way. The mutual interests held by members of the aquarist community and the subsequent sharing of experiences and insights may very well prove to be as personally rewarding and entertaining as any other aspect of the hobby. Enjoy your journey into the magnificent world of marine life, and take the time to appreciate and enjoy each leg of the journey.

Article by Luke Petterson

Hermit crabs in a saltwater aquarium can be very beneficial if you employ them in the right situations.

As your saltwater aquarium evolves you are going to eventually need to employ some sort of “cleanup crew” in your aquarium.

What is a cleanup crew? This term usually refers to the creatures that will inhabit the substrate and live rock in your aquarium and eat all kinds of stuff such as:

Fish food that has fallen to the bottom of the aquariumFish waste in the rocksAlgae and Cyanobacteria

… and other good stuff that you probably don’t want in your aquarium.

Why Hermit Crabs?

There are many options available when it comes to a cleanup crew in your aquarium. Snails, starfish and crabs are the most commonly thought of bottom dwelling critters.

If you can choose between the snails, starfish and crabs, why choose hermit crabs?

There probably is no clear reason to choose hermit crabs over snails, but these factors might sway you either way:

Availability. You can first of all only buy what is available to you. Maybe your local fish store or other source of critters for your tank only has a certain hermit crab or snail for sale. If you have access to hermit crabs but not snails, you might be tilted that way for that reason.Fun to watch. I find it more entertaining to watch hermit crabs mill about in the tank over snails. Just my preference.Hermit crabs eat. They can be voracious eaters. I find that a hermit crab will eat more algae and junk in my tank than snails… typically.

Smaller hermit crabs will also be able to climb into crevices and get into tight spots to eat junk.

Targeted Cleanup

Certain hermit crabs also eat certain types of algae and other specific nasty stuff in your aquarium. Some examples are:

The Dwarf Yellow Tip Hermit Crab – This hermit crab will eat many types of algae including red slime algae, and it will sift through sand, which is always a good thing.The Halloween Hermit Crab – This hermit crab will eat detritus, uneaten food and lots of algae types including red slime algae. It also sifts sand.The Electric Blue Hermit Crab – This hermit will mow down green algaes and will also go after red slime algae. They can climb rock quite amazingly well and are fun to watch.The Scarlet Hermit Crab – This hermit crab will eat a lot of different types of algae, including green, red and brown types of algae.

This is only a small sample size, but each hermit crab will bring with it it’s own traits. You will want to make sure that whatever type of hermit crabs you decide to add to your aquarium are compatible with what is currently in your aquarium. Other than that, besides looking at what a hermit crab will eat, it might even just comes down to personal preference!

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Marine fishkeeping history

The first saltwater tanks were Venetian glass jars where the Romans kept anemones outdoors, but these systems were very short lived. The first personal saltwater fishkeeping began on a wider scale in the 1950s, starting with the basic rectangular glass aquariums (usually 20 gallon), still popular today. Bleached coral along with a substrate of coarse crushed coral were the norm. Algae, including beneficial types such as coralline algae, were viewed negatively and were generally removed. The clean, sterile tank was viewed as the healthiest.

During the early days of marine aquaria, saltwater was collected at local beaches. Natural saltwater contains many unwanted organisms and pollutants. Aquarium literature of the time suggests that the most commonly kept marine fish were the percula clownfish, sergeant major damselfish, small, brackish-water pufferfish and scats, jeweled blennies, and blue damsels.

Aquariums were equipped with large air compressors, and were heavily aerated and filtered (primarily with undergravel filters, a norm for some time).

An ever-growing number of hobbyists experiencing the inconvenience of gathering natural sea water and the concurrent development of analytical chemistry techniques led to research into the chemical composition of sea water. Synthetic salt mixes were developed to replicate the chemical environment of the tropical ocean, including trace elements and salts. This advance made marine fishkeeping popular in areas without access to clean sea water.

Air driven, counter-current protein skimmers and reliable submersible electric heaters were invented in Germany.

Various advances in filtration included trickle and hang-on filters, both allowing a more natural equilibrium in the aquarium environment. The advancement of fluorescent lighting technologies to provide higher output, along with metal halide lighting, enabled the first reef tanks, making it possible to keep corals and other invertebrates without natural sunlight.

More efficient chemical testing allowed aquarists to understand the chemical properties of aquariums. By the 1980s, a biologically-based understanding of how to maintain an artificial ocean environment brought more successful and widespread marine fishkeeping.

Modern fishkeeping

Marine aquarium components

The major components are an aquarium, usually made from glass or acrylic, filtration equipment, lighting, and an aquarium heater. Marine aquariums can range in volume from less than 80 liters, (

Nano reef aquarium maintained at home

Types of marine aquariums

Marine aquarists typically divide saltwater aquariums into those housing fish only, those housing fish with live rock, and those primarily designed to house corals and other invertebrates (also known as reef aquariums). Many fish hobbyists also divide the types of saltwater tanks based on the water temperatures at which they are kept.

Tropical marine

The most common type of saltwater fish tank, the tropical marine tank, houses marine animals from tropical climates. Usually kept between 24 to 28 degrees Celsius (76-82 F), these tanks include tropical reef tanks, as well as fish-only tanks. These tanks tend to have a low concentrations of microscopic plankton and other foods eaten by filter feeders. Most livestock for these aquariums are acquired through commercial means.

Temperate marine (coldwater marine)

A temperate marine aquarium

One of the more obscure types of fish tanks, the coldwater marine tank, holds fish of temperate climates, with temperatures ranging around 10 to 24 degrees Celsius (5075 F). While most of these tanks are not as aesthetically pleasing as their tropical counterparts, colorful species such as dahlia anemones and the ornate cowfish can be found. However most coldwater fish are gray or dull in color. Most colorful species are found in the western pacific. These tanks also tend to require extra skill to maintain.

Since coldwater cnidaria are rare and coldwater corals only occur at great depths, hobbyists are largely confined to fish, crustaceans and mollusks. Since there are very few commercially available coldwater fish, hobbyists usually have to physically acquire specimens. The most common way of doing this is by trolling or seining. Unlike commercially available tropical fish, whose behavior patterns and tank compatibilities are well documented, coldwater fish require much local ichthyology knowledge in order to maintain them.

Many temperate fish have specific local diet requirements, while others, like tautog (blackfish), will eat just about any crustacean or frozen foods. The blackfish should not be kept with crabs and mollusks, while other fish, like the oyster cracker toadfish, will do fine with any fish that is not small enough to fit into its mouth. Due to it being such a localized hobby, not many people go the route of local tanks. However, they are more cost-effective than reef tanks, cheaper and easier to maintain, and the fish hardier. Most coldwater hobbyists start at a young age, and it takes experience before one can successfully gauge the compatibility of the fish in your area.[citation needed]

Live rock

Main article: Live rock

Live rock is rock that has been in the ocean, composed of limestone and decomposing coral skeleton, usually around a coral reef such as those around Fiji, and is usually covered with beneficial algae, coralline and tiny invertebrates and bacteria that are desirable in the aquarium. Some examples of the microfauna commonly found on live rock are crabs, snails, feather dusters, brittle stars, starfish, limpets, abalones, and an occasional sea urchin, sea anemone, coral, and sea sponge. Also, if the aquarist is unlucky, a mantis shrimp. Bristleworms are also common, most of which, while unattractive, are not harmful and are useful scavengers; some species can be pests, however. The addition of live rock is one of the best ways to ensure a healthy aquarium, as the rock provides a buffer to maintain high pH (8.0-8.3), alkalinity, and acid-neutralizing capacity. Alkalinity is often known by a rather confusing term, “carbonate hardness”, or KH. This is usually measured in “degrees” (dKH) or meq/L.

The microfauna found on live rock are detrivores and herbivores (as they eat algae and fish waste), and provide fish with a natural, attractive shelter. Live rock usually arrives from online dealers as “uncured”, and must be quarantined in a separate tank while undergoing the curing process, which involves the inevitable die-off of some of the rock’s inhabitants and the subsequent production of undesirable ammonia and nitrite. Live rock that is already cured is available at most pet stores that cater to saltwater. Live sand is similar to live rock and is equally desirable.

Filtration

A new sump with three compartments including a protein skimmer

Main article: Filter (aquarium)

In general, marine aquariums have more complex filtration requirements than most freshwater aquariums. The various components frequently include Wet and dry filters and Protein skimmers. Protein skimmers are devices that remove organic compounds prior to their degradation, and are also very useful in marine aquariums. Protein skimming is also used in the popular Berlin method that relies on live rock, and periodic partial water changes to degrade and remove waste products. The Berlin method relies on large amounts of live rock being included in the aquarium. The rule of thumb is 1/2 – 1 lb. per 1 US gallon (0.2 – 0.4 kg per 4 liters).

Some marine aquariums also include a refugium and/or a sump. Refugiums are small containers or aquariums that are hidden behind or beneath the main aquarium and connected to it via a water pump. Refugiums have recently become quite popular among reef aquarists because they can be used to serve several purposes such as adding water volume or providing a fish-free site for biological filtration in live rock and/or the sandbed. Fish-free refugiums are host to populations of copepods, amphipods, isopods and other zooplankton. The sump may contain a number of compartments, each with its own filtration material. Often, heaters, thermostats, and protein skimmers are placed in the sump.

Lighting

A DIY metal halide pendant lamp

Regular cyclical lighting is used in aquariums to simulate day and night. This is beneficial for fish and invertebrates since it establishes a routine, enables them to rest, and makes them feel more secure. The lighting used varies depending on the inhabitants of the aquarium. Typically, the type of lighting for aquariums with fish only is regarded as unimportant. In aquariums containing invertebrates, however, where algal growth (of both free-living and symbiotic algae) is desired, more intense lighting is required. There are many types of lights available: some common types include fluorescent, VHO fluorescent (Very High Output), compact fluorescent, LED and metal halide. Actinic lights produce a deep blue spectrum designed to simulate the dominant wavelength of light a few metres below the ocean’s surface.

Many different sources make different claims about what type of lighting system is the best. In reality, each technology or variation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The most primitive lighting source is natural sunlight. This is only effective in areas near the equator because the intensity of sunlight is greatest there. Efficiently utilizing natural sunlight requires complex planning and, as such, this method is applied on only the largest reef systems.

The next step up in technology is incandescent lamps. These are very wasteful of energy, producing between 15 and 30 lumens per watt of power (Out of a possible 683 lumens per watt for an ideal light source). Standard fluorescent lamps offer a great improvement over incandescents. There are better color temperatures available in fluorescent tubes that are more suited to aquariums than those of regular light bulb. They are also more efficient, averaging between 90 and 95 lumens per watt. The downside to regular fluorescent lights is that they do not have the intensity to penetrate into deeper aquariums.

There are a number of improved variations of fluorescent technology. The main ones are very high output (VHO), power compact fluorescent (PC), and T-5 high output (HO). VHO lamps are fluorescent lamps run at higher power levels, usually about three times the standard wattage for a given bulb length. They have the advantage of high light output, but the larger diameter bulbs limit the efficiency of reflectors. PC lighting is also high-power fluorescent lighting, but the bulbs are folded to put more tubes in a given space. The output of PC lamps are reduced by inefficient reflector designs.

VHO and PC bulbs are also fairly expensive to replace. T-5 HO lights are the newest variation on fluorescent lights. They are run at slightly higher power levels than standard fluorescent lamps, but are made significantly thinner. This allows for more efficient reflector designs that get more light into the aquarium. Because of this, higher quality T-5 systems often match or exceed the output of equivalent compact fluorescent or VHO lighting fixtures. All types of fluorescent lighting offer the same efficiency in lumens per watt; it is the shape of the bulb and reflectors that makes their overall outputs different.

Metal halide lights are the next level up from fluorescent technology. Metal halides produce about 90-100 lumens per watt of power. This is roughly the same as fluorescent. The improvement with metal halides is that they concentrate this light output into a very small space, whereas fluorescent lights evenly illuminate the entire aquarium. This is often referred to as point source lighting, and is what causes the rippling visual effect on many advanced aquarium setups. This concentration of light output increases the intensity, allowing metal halide lamps to get a lot of light to even the very bottom levels of most aquariums. Metal halides are available in many color temperatures , from 6500 K up to 20,000 K, though bulbs as high as 50,000 K are occasionally found. The downsides of metal halide lighting are the cost and the heat produced.

Most metal halide fixtures are more than double the price of an equivalent wattage fluorescent system, though prices have begun to drop in recent years. Halide lamps concentrate heat as well as light output. The surface of an operating lamp becomes hot enough to cause second or third degree burns instantly, so this lighting technology must be used with caution. The heat produced can also warm the aquarium to unacceptable levels, often necessitating the use of a chiller. The most recent addition to the list of aquarium lighting technologies is LED lighting. These have the potential to be much more efficient than any other technology, but have not yet become so because of issues of heat dissipation. LED’s have the advantage of point source lighting, but are also completely dimmable at any power level. This allows for more advanced lighting schedules, even the simulation of cloud cover. So far, LED’s have found use mainly as lunar lighting.

When considering lighting for an aquarium, there are generally two factors to consider: wattage and color temperature. Depending on the type of lighting (i.e. fluorescents, metal halide, etc) the wattage of light emitted may vary considerably, from tens of watts to several hundred watts in a lighting system. Wattage, while not indicative of color, is equivalent to power and essentially determines how brightly the light will shine. Due to the scattering of light in water, the deeper one’s tank is, the more powerful the lighting required. Color temperature, measured in kelvins (albeit slightly unrepresentively) refers to the color of light being emitted by the lamp and is based on the concept of blackbody radiation. Light from the sun has a color temperature of approximately 5900 K and lighting systems with color temperatures >5000 K tend to be best for growing plants in both the marine and freshwater setting. 10,000 K light appears bluish-white and emphasizes coloration in fishes and corals. Higher up on the spectrum there are 14,000 K and 20,000 K bulbs that produce a deep blue tint which mimic the lighting conditions underseas, creating an optimal ambience for invertebrates and livestock present.

Heating

Most marine aquarium inhabitants are endemic to tropical reefs and waters in Africa, Southeast Asia, and the Red Sea. Marine aquarium temperatures should mimic the natural environment of the inhabitants and are most commonly maintained at 23 to 28 degrees Celsius (73-82 F). In regions where the ambient temperature is less than the desired temperature of the aquarium this generally necessitates the use of an aquarium heater. In some areas ambient temperature is greater than the desired temperature and refrigeration devices, known as “chillers”, are used to cool the aquarium water.

Water testing

Marine aquarists commonly test the water in the aquarium for a variety of chemical indicators of water quality. These include:

Specific gravity, a relative measure of water density, is normally maintained between 1.020 and 1.024 in aquariums with fish only, and 1.023 and 1.026 for aquariums containing invertebrates. Salinity should therefore be between 28 and 35 PPT, with the higher values being beneficial in advanced reef systems. Because salinity is by definition directly related to specific gravity, both can be tested with an inexpensive hydrometer or refractometer.

pH should be maintained between 8.1 and 8.3. This can be raised with a commercially available buffering agent or through calcium-rich substrata. Carbonate hardness (KH) should be between 8 and 12 degrees of carbonate hardness. A calibrated calcium reactor can assist in maintaining both pH and carbonate hardness. Using purified water from a reverse osmosis/deionization (RO/DI) unit can prevent KH and pH fluctuation.

The nitrogen cycle refers to the conversion of toxic ammonia to nitrite and finally nitrate. While fish waste (urine and feces) and decaying matter release ammonia, the majority of ammonia released (approximately 60%) in both marine and freshwater aquariums is excreted directly into the water from the fishes’ gills. Biological (bacterial) nitrification converts the ammonia into nitrite ions, NO2-, and then to nitrate ions, NO3-. Nitrate is readily taken up and assimilated by algae and hermatypic corals. Some nitrate is converted via an anaerobic bacterial process to free nitrogen, but this process is very difficult to maintain. In the recent past, most nitrate, which is less toxic to fishes and most invertebrates than nitrites, accumulated in the water until it was physically removed by a water change. However, many marine aquarists are now employing the use of a special section of the tank or separate tank altogether, called a “refugium.” A refugium is, as its name suggests, a sheltered area that shares water with the primary, or display, tank. Refugiums usually contain a deep sand bed to allow anoxic zones to develop within them where anaerobic bacteria can convert nitrate into nitrogen gas, a useful means of nitrate removal. Various types of macroalgae can be grown and harvested from the refugium as another means of nitrate export. As refugiums become more common in marine aquaria, nitrate levels are easily manageable for even the novice hobbyist. Ammonia and nitrite should be tested regularly; any detectable levels (i.e., over 0 ppm) can be indicative of a problem. Nitrates should not exceed 2 ppm in reef tanks, or 20 ppm in fish-only tanks. It is sometimes acceptable to have a small amount of nitrate buildup, as some livestock, especially fish, are fairly tolerant of nitrate. Most corals, while able to assimilate nitrate, cannot be expected to survive, much less thrive, with high nitrate concentrations.

Other suggested tests include those for calcium, carbonate alkalinity, magnesium, and other trace elements. It is often beneficial (and necessary) for the aquarist to research the water chemistry parameters for the specific organism that is desired.

Acclimation

Acclimation is a process that is performed when adding new marine life to an aquarium, particularly for invertebrates, who lack osmoregulation. This process slowly introduces the organisms to the water composition of the new environment, preventing shock resulting from sudden changes in water chemistry. There are several different methods of doing this, including the use of a drip line, or of a measuring cup or other device to slowly mix water from the aquarium tank into a container with the new animal.

Water changes

Water changes are a staple of good saltwater maintenance. Larger (approximately 200 gallon) aquariums are much more stable and water changes may not need to take place if the nitrogen cycle has fully established itself in the tank, although this is a controversial statement among aquarists. Water changes are used to maintain balance of calcium, carbonate alkalinity, and magnesium which are rapidly depleted in a reef aquarium, while also maintaining levels of other trace elements as well as removing toxic solutes which may accumulate from many different sources and are unable to be removed by even advanced filtration methods. Supplements are needed (such as calcium) when regular water changes alone are not able to maintain adequate levels, particularly those of calcium, carbonate, and magnesium. Water changes involve removing a fraction of the total volume of the aquarium, replacing that water with new pre-mixed saltwater. Pre-mixed saltwater has been dechlorinated and/or dechloraminatedypically with an additive such as bisulfite or through filtering. Water should be brought to the same temperature if more than a 5% change is occurring. Salinity should match that of the aquarium, or be dosed very slowly if altering the salinity. Aging and aerating saltwater (such as in a bucket with a powerhead or airstone) is recommended as good practice to allow the pH to stabilize.

Replacement water should be of the same source as the aquarium, whether it be reverse osmosis (RO), de-ionized (DI), distilled or from a municipal supply, in order to avoid drastic changes in water chemistry. In cases where one is replacing a tap water-based salt mix with a reverse osmosis-based salt mix, the replacement water should be added slowly over the course of several hours to avoid sending the aquarium inhabitants into osmotic shock. However, large water changes are not advised under routine circumstances anyways, so this is really irrelevant. Municipal, or tap water, is not recommended for a marine aquarium as it often contains high levels of nitrates, phosphates, and silicates and other dissolved solids which fuel the growth of nuisance algaes, particularly diatoms, which appears as a rust colored powdery algae and grows in the overabundance of silicates present in all tap water. Water filtered by a four stage process including mechanical, carbon, reverse-osmosis, and de-ionizing components is recommended as this can provide the easiest route to absolutely pure water. Four and Five stage RO/DI filtration units can be obtained for as little as 0 and are a cost effective means of converting tap water into water usable in a marine aquarium.

Conservation

Almost all species kept in marine aquaria at this time are caught in the wild, although tank-raised specimens are becoming increasingly common as a viable alternative. Only a few species such as clownfish are captive-bred on a commercial scale. Much collecting is done in Indonesia and the Philippines, where use of cyanide and other destructive collection methods, while discouraged, is unfortunately common. The majority of live rock is also harvested in the wild, and recent restrictions on this harvest in Florida have caused a shift to Fijian and aquacultured rock. Natural rock, because it is created by coral polyps, takes many years if not centuries to form, and is a vital habitat for countless marine species; thus, commercial-scale harvesting of naturally-occurring live rock has been criticized by conservationists. Additionally, many animal species sold to hobbyists have very specific dietary and habitat requirements that cannot be met by hobbyists (e.g. Labroides genus wrasses, the moorish idol); these animals almost inevitably die quickly and have markedly reduced lifespans compared to wild specimens. Often these specific environmental requirements cause improperly housed lifestock’s color and appearance to be poor. These issues are often downplayed by individuals and organizations with a financial interest in the trade. Hobbyists who support conservation should buy only certified net-caught fish (although ensuring the legitimacy of such claims can be difficult) or captive-raised fish, as well as farmed corals and to support legitimate reef conservation efforts. The majority of corals can be “fragged”, whereby a portion of a larger captive coral is separated and can subsequently be raised into an individual specimen, allowing for coral propagation within the domestic aquarium; the trade in frags (i.e. fragments) offers a fantastic opportunity for marine aquarists to obtain new and unique corals while limiting the impact on the natural environment. Rare species and those without a history of being successfully kept in captivity should be avoided.

Commercial front

Various businesses have brought a commercial front to fishkeeping, perhaps the largest being Marineland, Inc. With the advent of large scale business operations focusing on breeding massive quantities of specimens, marine fishkeeping has become much more widespread than ever before. Perhaps the biggest turndown in marine fishkeeping is the initial setup cost. A 100 US gallon (400 L) reef tank full of coral and equipment can cost in excess of ,500 US. Aside from the difficulty, this is a large factor as to why freshwater fishkeeping is still so widespread in comparison to its marine counterpart.

References and further reading

Advanced Marine Aquarium Techniques, by Jay Hemdal

The Conscientious Marine Aquarist, by Robert Fenner

Invertebrates: A Quick Reference Guide, by Julian Sprung

Corals: A Quick Reference Guide, by Julian Sprung

Reef Invertebrates: An Essential Guide to Selection, Care and Compatibility, by Anthony Calfo and Robert Fenner

Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History, by Eric H. Borneman.

Natural Reef Aquariums: Simplified Approaches to Creating Living Saltwater Microcosms, by John H. Tullock

External links

Pets: Fish and Aquaria: Marine at the Open Directory Project

RTAW Reefpedia, a Reef Keeping wiki maintained by the Marine Aquarium Societies of Australia

Protein Skimmer Info, a site giving information, specifications, reviews and DIY Plans for Protein Skimmers

Temperate Marine Info, a site giving information and providing resources for the coldwater marine aquarium hobbyist

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Aquarium and fishkeeping hobby

Types

Freshwater aquarium Marine aquarium Brackish water aquarium Community tank Biotope Reef aquarium

Aquarium equipment and furniture

Filter Berlin Method Protein skimmer Deep sand bed Heater Refugium Calcium reactor Bog-wood and Driftwood Airstone Live rock Substrate Fishcam Aquarium fish feeder Aquarium lighting

Fish terms

Hardy fish Dither fish Algae eater Bottom feeder Tropical fish Coldwater fish Painted fish

Fish food

Flake food Feeder fish Bloodworms Brine shrimp Tubifex tubifex Daphnia Infusoria

Lists

List of freshwater aquarium fish species List of freshwater aquarium plant species List of freshwater aquarium invertebrate species List of marine aquarium fish species List of brackish aquarium fish species List of aquarium diseases

Other terms

Aquascaping Spawning triggers Reef safe MacQuarium Bath treatment

Aquarium magazines

Practical Fishkeeping Tropical Fish Hobbyist Koi Aquarium Fish International

People

Takashi Amano Herbert R. Axelrod Julian Sprung

Aquarium related companies

Tetra Sera Eheim Hagen

Categories: FishkeepingHidden categories: Articles needing additional references from July 2007 | All articles needing additional references | All articles with unsourced statements | Articles with unsourced statements from December 2008 | Articles containing video clips

Find More Saltwater Aquarium Articles

A well set up saltwater aquarium tank is the dream of those who love the hobby. It can be an amazing and striking addition to your home or office and bring you hour of peaceful entertainment.

If you are a beginner, starting with a saltwater aquarium can be a risky business, so I would highly recommend getting the advice of a professional aquarium keeper before setting up your tank. It takes a lot of work and planning to set up the tank just right even before you can begin to introduce fish, corals, and anemones to your new saltwater aquarium.

You will need to monitor the water parameters (temperature, nitrates, ammonia, etc) and some of the aquarium equipment on your saltwater setup. Once a week, or at least once a month, you will need to perform aquarium maintenance on your fish tank, especially water changes and water quality testing.

The water in such an aquarium needs to be at the perfect temperature, be at the optimum pH, and have the exact salt content before it is safe for living beings. Salt water fish and other life forms are quite expensive, so it would be wise to have the tank properly set up before you end up with a tank full of sick or dying fish at a high cost.

There are different marine salt mixes in the market and they are all made slightly differently. Unless you’re considering a reef tank, most of the commonly available mixes should serve you fine. You will develop your own salt mix preference after you’ve worked with them for a while.

Prepare and mix your salt water in a special bucket and once you have the perfect mixture you can add the saltwater to your tank. You will have to repeat this process until you have filled the aquarium.

If it’s a large tank you can mix the salt in the tank, which can be a bit more difficult and messy.

The lighting on the saltwater aquarium is very important. You need light in the aquarium for at least half a day. Plants and livestock need a perfect cycle of oxygen and carbon dioxide.

A well decorated salt water aquarium will be an asset for years to come, so it’s worth it to spend time and energy looking for the right décor and ornaments for the tank. There are many types of decorations for a saltwater aquarium. Driftwood and sand look simply beautiful and are essential elements of saltwater fish natural habitat.

You can opt for real or plastic plants. However, live plants help you bring Nature into your home. Live plants oxygenate the water in the tank. Keep in mind that your fish will use the decorations you place in the tank as shelter and as playgrounds. So, for the benefit of the fish and to maintain the natural beauty of the aquarium, I would advise to use real aquatic plants.

Live rock is great for your saltwater aquarium. It helps formulate the aquarium’s ecosystem, vital to aquatic life. Live rock is covered with micro and macro organisms which filter the waste products from the water, making it safe for your aquatic inhabitants.

Some saltwater aficionados keep only living corals and anemones in their tanks. This can be colorful and entertaining, at a more relaxed pace. You could keep fish in these tanks, but be aware that some fish view coral and anemones as food. Shrimps, crabs and snails will also eat any anemones you may have.

Anemones look like plants, but they are living creatures that need to be fed, and feeding them by hand can be a lot of fun. You place the food on top of the anemones tentacles and watch them curl themselves around the food and draw it into their mouths.

Before you bring in the inhabitants of your tank, choose the type of fish that you want. The type of fish will also decide the type of plants you use. You also need to research how the type of fish you are interested in will get along with other types of fish. Remember that the dynamics of a saltwater aquarium will be very similar to that in a real coral reef. Don’t mix pray and predators. Do your homework.

Some types of saltwater fish are poisonous, like Lion Fish. They are beautiful to look at and it’s an awesome addition to your tank, but the spines on their fins are very toxic if you get stung. You need to get medical help if this ever happens.

Deciding to have a saltwater aquarium is a lot of work. Keeping your fish and plants healthy will require a commitment on your part and it will be a considerable investment. But if you want to invite Mother Nature into your home environment, there is no better choice. You will enjoy this hobby for years to come.

Article by richard

There are certain inherent challenges to virtually any activities, and the creation and maintenance of a saltwater aquarium are no different. A bit of reasonably well thought out foresight can sometimes save us lots of resources at some point down the road. It might therefore be a good investment of our time and attention to consider some challenges that commonly befall the less experienced aquarist.

A very common mistake is to misunderstand the eating requirements of our livestock, commonly resulting in overfeeding. However, there are concerns related to overfeeding that should be taken into consideration in addition to the obvious.

Among such concerns is that uneaten food that remains in the tank for prolonged periods of time can create unwanted nitrates and overload filters. It is therefore most advisable to not only clearly understand the eating habits of our livestock, but to also possess a working knowledge of the ingredients of the food we purchase and subsequently place in the tank. Compare the nutrients from one brand of food to another, purchasing only those of high quality, and do not feed fish any more than they can consume within two to three minutes per feeding.

Another common mistake is having improper water filtration and circulation. Adequate biological filtration is a very important aspect of our saltwater aquariums. There are various choices for filtration systems, and making the wrong one creates many challenges that could have been avoided. It is better to have more filtration than is necessary than to not have enough.

Similarly, a lack of adequate water circulation creates the potential for multiple significant challenges. Poor water flow can cause the inadvertent cultivation of undesired algae and the prevention of stationary livestock from receiving adequate amounts of food, among additional problems.

The misdiagnosis of disease is yet another frequent stumbling block among beginner aquarists. This is quite relevant in the manner it relates to the treatment of saltwater ich, the most commonly found disease in saltwater tanks. Specifically, there are two different types of saltwater ich that are often confused with one another.

One of the two is Amyloodinium ocellatum, sometimes referred to as Oodinium, and commonly known as either Marine Velvet or Coral Fish Disease. The second of the two is Cryptocaryon irritans, more popularly known as White Spot Disease. The two have some commonalities yet also have some succinct differences, so effective treatment is quite different from one to the other. It is therefore quite important to accurately diagnose either, as is the case with any disease that may be found within our saltwater aquariums.

A little research and subsequent planning can add up to a whole lot of savings in resources such as time, attention, and money. We should take our time and not rush in making our decisions about building and maintaining our aquariums. Acquiring knowledge related to topics such as the types of livestock to purchase, the compatibility of the livestock, and general tank maintenance should all be considered an ongoing part of our hobby.