During the preparation of your freshwater aquarium, choosing sand as your substrate is not much of a dilemma. The biggest reason, of course, is the fact that sand is the most common substrate in the wild freshwater systems like lakes, ponds and streams.

As such, most fish are naturally more familiar with it than with any other kind like rocks and stones and some plain underwater soil. Aside from this, certain species of fish with delicate barbells will not have any problems digging around. Some others actually dig and hide under the sand.

For one, sand has many advantages than the other substrate choices for your aquarium. Because of its being ever-present in many places, fish are naturally familiar with it. They are the best for fishes with delicate barbells and for those who are natural burrowers and diggers.

Inside your freshwater aquarium, sand harbors the useful bacteria that help process the whole ecosystem inside.

(Gravel has less surface areas compared to it.) They are also perfect for growing your tank’s underwater plants.

Depending on the kind of fish you have, sand is good lining for the bottom of a fish tank, especially for those with delicate types of fish. There are many species who like to hide and burrow into the sand. They cannot do that in gravel.

there are many advantages of having sand in your fish tank like it makes setting up your decorations and plants nuch easier than with gravel. Sand is not just the ideal medium for your aquatic plants, but it also harbors the useful bacteria needed for the whole tank ecosystem. Gravel has less surface area than sand and that is why it is a less favorable surface for good bacteria to form on.

Advantages

In the natural world, sand is the bottom surface of most fish habitats that include ponds, rivers, and lakes.

This makes it more natural for your fish and for breeders, make a note that some species will only breed in sand filled aquariums.

Some species of fish even eat a little sand to help in their digestion. Needless to say, sand is also ideal for the many species of aquatic plants.

Precautions

However, when using sand for your aquariums substrate let’s review a common mistake. This mistake is not to control the thickness of your sand layer. Fine sand has a tendency to have “dead pockets”, which are those areas without any water circulation and thus no oxygen circulation .

biological and ecological filtration cannot happen in sand that does not ‘breathe’ so it becomes oxygen poor. If you want your sand substrate thick, be sure to disturb it regularly. You can have some animals or fish that can do that for you – dig tunnels, burrow, and generally move the sand around.

Types

The importance of the choice of types of sand for your aquarium has been a source of wisdom among long-time aquarium owners for many decades . There are several considerations and you may need more than one to balance your choice.

One important factor is the mineral content of the sand which can affect the water chemistry. The color and the size of the sand grains are also important.

Some fish species are shy and they could be less stressed (threatened) if a brightly-colored sand is changed into something darker. Smoothe rounded sand and fine sand is best if your fish have soft bellies or like to bite at the sand.

Large aquarium shops usually have at least six different types of sand to choose from. Black Tahitian moon sand, Aragonite sand, Coral Sand, Black Beauty Sand which is also known as powdered iron slag, and the popular silica sand which is also known as blasting sand and play sand.

Silica sand

This is the sand used by the sand blasting industry. Relatively cheap (around 100 lbs. for ), it is pale tan and the texture is extremely fine.

Black beauty

Black beauty sand is not found in nature – it is a powdered iron slag. It is also used by the sand-blasting industry.

This type of sand will definitely alter the chemistry inside your aquarium. What’s more, powdered iron slag may have sharp edges which are not ideal for those fish species that continuously sift sand.

Play sand

Play sand is more diverse in grain size and color than silica sand. It is also darker than silica and has much clay in it.

It is cheap, and is sold in large quantities for use in filling up sand boxes. It can also be bought from home supply stores because it is also used in making brickwork.

Coral sand

This is usually used in aquariums to keep the pH value alkaline, and the water hard. It is more expensive than silica sand, iron slag, and play sand, but cheaper than aragonite.

It is made from crushed corals, this is usually white with a diverse grain size as well.

Aragonite

This is one of the most expensive of all types of aquarium sand. It is available in various colors and grain sizes for differet applications.

Like the coral sand, the aragonite can also help in adjusting the pH value and the water hardness in the aquarium.

Tahitian moon sand

Another expensive variety of sand is the famous black Tahitian moon sand. Beautiful by itself, the black Tahitian moon sand can make your colorful fish even be more showy because their colors are enhanced when placed in contrast against the black sand.

The black Tahitian moon sand is not iron slag.

Setup

As with most things (including sand), anything introduced into your freshwater aquarium needs to be cleaned and free from substances (and live things) that will pollute your tank.

The best way to do this is to thoroughly clean the sand by passing it through water to remove the debris and other detritus (living or dead) that will dirty up your aquarium.

Maintenance

It is good policy to vacuum the sand every 2 to 4 weeks, and siphon off floating debris. If you don’t have animals to do it for you, manually churn the sand around 4 to 6 times a year. Churning releases trapped gas (and wastes) under the inert sand.

Move the stones and other décor (and the fish, if possible) and vacuum the water. Turn off the pumps and filters first before churning and wait for everything to settle down before turning them on again.

Choosing the right sand for your freshwater aquarium is like choosing the right landscape for your house. It will not only please your eyes but it certainly helps the lives of your fish.

Related Freshwater Aquarium Articles

Article by Morris Higgens

Awareness: Don’t have confidence in just just one person’s guidance in this pastime. There are a good deal of perfect techniques and improper techniques to do items in this pastime. Investigation, investigate, homework! Join a number of forums and a native club, browse approximately and most importantly get concerned and request problems. You’ll quickly launch seeing a consensus close to what functions (and what doesn’t) that will preserve you time, stress and wealth.

These three virtues are essential in your accomplishment, so invariably hold them in mind when beginning this journey. A good number of men and women get turned off to the pastime considering that men and women say it’s as well expensive. While there is plenty of costly scarce fish and corals, cutting edge know-how and hundreds of merchandise marketed as a “will have to have” to contend with, you can get an good tank up and jogging for far less than you believe that.

Salt Creep in Aquariums and How to Deal With It

Saltwater aquariums will practical experience salt creep, there is no way all around it. You will in all probability notice that it is most excellent to not let salt creep get out of command. Salt creep can without delay grow to be cumbersome to clean if you allow it go. Salt will develop up on major hardware also, and can hamper effectiveness. Salt will develop up on heaters. Salt will put together up on your protein skimmer. Salt creep will make up on your aquarium hood and lighting hardware. I could continue to keep going, but you get the strategy.

Salt will fall into the carpet, if you have carpet around your tank. Salt is difficult to clear out of the carpet if it builds up to the point where by it turns into a thick crust. Ugh. This is specifically a hazard if there is dripping or leaking from your tank or tank hardware.

Marine Aquariums

There are a number of lights possibilities but the most popular novice lights fixtures contain Electrical power compacts (Computer). You can increase a variety of corals underneath PC’s. If you make a decision to advance in the pastime and graduate to SPS coral, then your lighting will have to be upgraded to T5′s, Halides, or LED’s.

Hang on back again (HOB) filters, canister filters, and bio balls are not endorsed to reef tanks as they turned out to be nitrate factories and full with your display tank (DT).

The Rest Aquariums Can Deliver

Older members of society who had been presented access to an aquarium filled with fish had appreciably reduce blood strain numbers as nicely. Viewing fish and their tranquil movement in the water has also calmed small children suffering from varieties of hyperactivity issues. Dental patients who underwent hypnosis versus an aquarium also skilled equivalent advantages from watching fish. It’s no wonder that doctor’s offices and waiting rooms of all types ordinarily have a tank of some sort with loads of fish in them. Apart from decreasing blood stress, it is only entertaining to see the fishes’ activity.

Reports have also concluded that seniors suffering from Alzheimer’s practical knowledge a quantity of health and fitness advantages from viewing fish activity in ponds, aquariums, and the like. Some have gone as much as to incorporate a drinking water garden in their property to make it easy for for this. Alzheimer individuals consumed a little more food, and ended up needing less dietary supplements immediately after placing an aquarium in the dining room or a pond exterior in a backyard location. Bodily aggressive behaviors also reduced noticeably after viewing the fish.

More Saltwater Aquarium Articles

Article by richard

The type of lighting that we will select for use in our saltwater aquarium is largely dependant upon the grouping of livestock that we will select to inhabit the tank. Regular cycles of light are commonly used to simulate day and night for fish and invertebrates. This encourages a feel of a natural environment among our livestock, cultivating the proper periods of rest and similar such circumstances that are most conducive to their successful and healthy adaptations to our aquariums.

Tanks containing only fish and live rock do not commonly require overly specific lighting techniques. However, invertebrates and the required propagation of various forms of algae that are commonly needed indeed calls for more specific and customized lighting. Choices for lighting our tanks include natural sunlight, Light Emitting Diode (LED), various forms of fluorescent bulbs, and metal halide lights.

Natural sunlight is only effective as a light source for a saltwater aquarium in geographic areas located in the vicinity of the equator. This is due to the levels of intensity of sunlight found in such areas. Such aquarist techniques involving the use of sunlight and in the vicinity of the equator are only implemented among large reef tanks. In tanks that are much more commonly found among hobbyists throughout the world, natural sunlight is avoided as a light source as it is potentially detrimental to many forms of livestock for a variety of reasons.

LED sources have a great deal of potential. The jury is somewhat still out on the extent of their practicality and effectiveness, however, so it can depend on which expert we ask as to how they will evaluate LED. One way or the other, the aquarist community would be well served to keep a watchful eye on evolving technological developments among LED light sources, as implications currently include advances in lighting schedules, simulations of lunar lighting, and even the effective simulation of cloud coverage.

Different types of fluorescent bulbs all have about the same intensity, but it is their various shapes and reflectors that result in their unique specifications. The newer fluorescents have improved reflectors, allowing more amounts of light into the aquarium than in years past. The more recently designed bulbs are a bit more costly to maintain than their predecessors, so some aquarists continue to use traditional fluorescent lighting sources.

Metal halide lights are comparable in practicality to fluorescent lighting. Many aquarists consider the primary difference to be that metal halide may be concentrated into specific areas of the tank while fluorescent light is distributed evenly. Metal halide lighting systems are usually more of a financial investment than fluorescent lights, but are required for certain reef tanks.

Overall, it will depend on the specific types of livestock that we desire to maintain as to the importance of our choice for lighting. This is of course directly related to the amount that we should be willing to invest in our lighting and the extents that we will go to achieve and maintain our optimal light conditions.

Article by Bob Finklea

Way back when there was a popular saying that went like this, ‘Are you a shrimp’? It meant that you were somehow not manly or tough enough to do a certain task or job. The inference was insulting and that is the way that the American society viewed the shrimp for a long time. As something that we didn’t want but had to deal with in society. In recent years, the exotic freshwater aquarium shrimp has been added to the aquaria hobby. Shrimp has been kept in many tanks in some parts of the world for many years until creative hobbyists found them to be great in home aquarium

Takashi Amano, a Japanese aquarist, introduced a shrimp variety known as the Yamato Numa Ebi in the 1980′s. Also known as the “Japanese marsh shrimp” and “Amano shrimp”, they are more colorful than other freshwater aquarium shrimp. Their color combinations are light brown to reddish brown. They can get as large as 2 inches when fully grown and prefer to eat soft algae. They are sensitive to high levels of ammonia but can tolerate high alkalinity. Coming from a temperate region, they only thrive in waters temperatures ranging from 30 C and below. When algae is not available, they will eat fish food and some other things in the absence of their normal food supply.

Another popular variety is the Cherry shrimp which originated from Taiwan. The most sought after variation of this type is the Red Cherry shrimp which was bred in Germany. They were brought to the Unite States in the 1990′s. The Red Cherry shrimp have care requirements almost the same with the Amano shrimp. They are the same in size and eating habits. Known in the scientific circles as Neocaridina denticulata sinensis, Cherry shrimp are non-aggressive. They are very active and spend most of the time grazing on plant leaves and the tanks bottom for algae.

A known and somewhat popular kind is the Bee shrimps who have also become known as Bumble Bee shrimp. These small freshwater shrimp came from Hong Kong. They grow slowly and only grow to 1 inch in adulthood. Unlike the Amano shrimp and Cherry shrimp, they are not good algae eaters. They consume vegetable matter and soft mosses. In water temperatures between 22 to 25 degress they do very wellC, and a water ph of 7.5 and the water should be free of any ammonia. Bumble Bee shrimp can reproduce 12 times in a year if their habitat is properly maintained. They reach adulthood in half a year and can live to almost one and a half years.

There are large, long-arm shrimp that are preferred by some aquarists but they are known to be aggressive. With their chelipeds they can catch small fish and other small pets in within the tank. The Indian whisker shrimp are one of these species. They also require bigger tanks compared to their smaller counterparts. They must be isolated from smaller shrimp and fish because they may cause disruptions in the habitat.

In caring for freshwater aquarium shrimp, it must be considered that with their size, isolating them would be a good idea. They must be kept in a separate tank because small shrimp are at risk of being eaten by freshwater fish. Avoiding ammonia is also a main consideration and it can be done by selecting a 10-gallon tank. A smaller tank can not give the water quality the shrimp need. They are more sensitive than freshwater fish to water conditions. They can be easily killed by accumulated amounts of ammonia.

For biological filtration, an air-driven sponge filter is one of the better options. Fine-grain gravel and silica sand can be used as substrate especially for Cherry shrimp. Java moss could be a great addition to the tank. It has been observed that shrimp are more active and productive having Java moss because it does not drastically compete with them in nutrients. Basic fish food are fine with shrimp, whether it be pellet or flake. It is a better to give them the amount they can consume in a few minutes. Putting excess food in the tank can affect water quality and may endanger the shrimp.

Water quality must be monitored constantly because the slightest changes in its condition have an immediate adverse effect on the shrimp. The water temperature must be maintained at 25ºC and a maximum of 30ºC. Ammonia and Chlorine must be neutralized immediately using an ammonia neutralizer and dechlorinator respectively. Toxins must be eliminated from the aquarium on the weekly basis to protect the live shrimp in the tank and should be done on a weekly schedule and in stages of around 30 percent of the water per water change.

The health of the shrimp can be judged with their behavior in the water. They are healthy if they constantly move and look for food. They never hold still unless they drop their shell in the course of growing. As their new shell hardens in about two days, they stay hidden because at this condition they are vulnerable to predators especially in a community tank. Maintaining the parameters of their habitat will ensure their health and longer life span. New and improved ways of caring for them are being discovered as more people appreciate them as part of this hobby.

The market for freshwater aquarium shrimp is slowly gaining ground. The west of the Americas are now seeing the bauty in these pets and getting them for their home aquariums and well as some office fish tanks. The Japanese and other people in the Orient have been doing it for many years now. Keeping shrimp is an old practice rediscovered as a hobby. It took a second look at the shrimp not just as an edible creature, but a living decoration that helped us realize its beauty and vitality.

More Freshwater Aquarium Articles

Aquarists have discovered that freshwater aquarium shrimp can match the beauty of freshwater aquarium fish. They also come in different color combinations and sizes. As a hobby, they are not time consuming and give the same joy the fish give. They have become part of one of the greatest hobbies in the world and have established a solid place within the fish community of thousands of tanks around the world. Now they are being sold at pet stores like any other type of fish.

Takashi Amano, a Japanese aquarist, introduced a shrimp variety known as the Yamato Numa Ebi in the 1980′s. Also known as the “Japanese marsh shrimp” and “Amano shrimp”, they are more colorful than other freshwater aquarium shrimp. Their color combinations are light brown to reddish brown. They can get as large as 2 inches when fully grown and prefer to eat soft algae. They are sensitive to high levels of ammonia but can tolerate high alkalinity.

Coming from a temperate region, they only thrive in waters temperatures ranging from 30 C and below. When algae is not available , they will eat fish food and some other things in the absence of their normal food supply.

Another popular variety is the Cherry shrimp which originated from Taiwan. The most sought after variation of this type is the Red Cherry shrimp which was bred in Germany. They were brought to the Unite States in the 1990′s. The Red Cherry shrimp have care requirements almost the same with the Amano shrimp. They are the same in size and eating habits. Known in the scientific circles as Neocaridina denticulata sinensis, Cherry shrimp are non-aggressive. They are very active and spend most of the time grazing on plant leaves and the tanks bottom for algae.

A known and somewhat popular kind is the Bee shrimps who have also become known as Bumble Bee shrimp.

These small freshwater shrimp came from Hong Kong. They grow slowly and only grow to 1 inch in adulthood. Unlike the Amano shrimp and Cherry shrimp, they are not good algae eaters. They consume vegetable matter and soft mosses. In water temperatures between 22 to 25 degress they do very wellC, and a water ph of 7.5 and the water should be free of any ammonia. Bumble Bee shrimp can reproduce 12 times in a year if their habitat is properly maintained. They reach adulthood in half a year and can live to almost one and a half years.

There are large, long-arm shrimp that are preferred by some aquarists but they are known to be aggressive. With their chelipeds they can catch small fish and other small pets in within the tank. The Indian whisker shrimp are one of these species. They also require bigger tanks compared to their smaller counterparts. They must be isolated from smaller shrimp and fish because they may cause disruptions in the habitat.

In caring for freshwater aquarium shrimp, it must be considered that with their size, isolating them would be a good idea. They must be kept in a separate tank because small shrimp are at risk of being eaten by freshwater fish. Avoiding ammonia is also a main consideration and it can be done by selecting a 10-gallon tank. A smaller tank can not give the water quality the shrimp need. They are more sensitive than freshwater fish to water conditions. They can be easily killed by accumulated amounts of ammonia.

For biological filtration, an air-driven sponge filter is one of the better options. Fine-grain gravel and silica sand can be used as substrate especially for Cherry shrimp. Java moss could be a great addition to the tank. It has been observed that shrimp are more active and productive having Java moss because it does not drastically compete with them in nutrients. Pellets and flakes are good for feeding shrimp but the shrimp will do better with other foods more to their liking. It is a better to give them the amount they can consume in a few minutes. Putting excess food in the tank can affect water quality and may endanger the shrimp.

Water quality must be monitored constantly because the slightest changes in its condition have an immediate adverse effect on the shrimp. The water temperature must be maintained at 25ºC and a maximum of 30ºC. Ammonia and Chlorine must be neutralized immediately using an ammonia neutralizer and dechlorinator respectively. Thirty percent of the water must also be changed on a weekly basis to prevent further accumulation of these toxic substances.

The health of the shrimp can be judged with their behavior in the water. They are healthy if they constantly move and look for food. They never hold still unless they drop their shell in the course of growing. As their new shell hardens in about two days, they stay hidden because at this condition they are vulnerable to predators especially in a community tank. Maintaining the parameters of their habitat will ensure their health and longer life span. New and improved ways of caring for them are being discovered as more people appreciate them as part of this hobby.

The market for freshwater aquarium shrimp is slowly gaining ground. The west of the Americas are now seeing the bauty in these pets and getting them for their home aquariums and well as some office fish tanks. The Japanese and other people in the Orient have been doing it for many years now. Keeping shrimp is an old practice rediscovered as a hobby. It took a second look at the shrimp not just as an edible creature, but a living decoration that helped us realize its beauty and vitality.

Related Freshwater Aquarium Articles

Now that you’ve set up your freshwater fish tank and you’ve conditioned the water you’ll want to populate it with some fish.  But before you run out to the store to stock your freshwater aquarium with the first fish that catch your eye you need to make some decisions about what type of fish to select.

Selecting fish based on colors is probably the last criteria for selecting the right fish for your freshwater aquarium.  You need to understand some basics about the actual breed of fish so that your fish get along and don’t fight, or even worse, eat each other.   So how do you know which freshwater fish are best? 

DO YOUR HOMEWORK

Depending on the fish supply store where you shop you’ll find different degrees of knowledge among the staff that work there.  Try and either get a recommendation from another fish enthusiast for a local store that knows their stuff or try asking some questions where you already know the answer and see how their answers measure up.  The knowledge of the staff will vary widely depending not only on the store itself but the staff that happens to be on duty the day you walk in to shop.

But there are really two main questions to consider:

Do you want a community fish tank or do you want a single species fish tank?

GOOD COMMUNITY FISH CITIZENS

Freshwater aquarium fish that generally get along well with others include most live bearers such as Platys, Mollies, Swordtails and Guppies.  But even then, male swordtails will often fight with one being the aggressor over another.  Gouramis and Angel Fish generally play well with others, too.  Neon Tetras and Zebra Danios add color and lots of motion and are considered school fish that usually hang out in groups. 

Cichlids are usually aggressive and territorial as are Tiger Barbs and other types of Barbs.

Non-community fish would also include Oscars, which eat other fish, as well as some exotic fish like the Cave Blind Fish which will bite first and ask questions later.

OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER

Fish of the same sex will sometimes fight (such as the swordtails mentioned above).  Several females to one male usually works best to avoid conflict.   And disparity in size will often lead to problems with larger fish eating or nipping at much smaller fish.  In general, try to avoid mixing really small fish with larger fish as the temptation to eat each other will just be too great.  Not to mention a complete waste of money.  That’s not to say that a big Kissing Gourami can’t get along with a guppy.  But again, you’ll need to know what you’re bringing home.

Here are some other questions to consider:

Does the fish like to hide (like loaches) or does it enjoy open areas (like zebra danios)?
What is the fish’s PH preference (Lower pH verses higher pH)?
What does the fish eat?  (Some only eat live food)
Is it a bottom feeder or a top feeder?
How much space does this fish need? (now and in the future when they grow)
What temperature does this fish thrive in?

If you’re not sure about the expertise of the people working in the local fish store, one idea is to go to the store, write down some names of the fish you like and then research them on the Internet when you get home using this article as your check list.  We also strongly recommend buying only 2 – 3 new fish at a time.  Let them get settled in, see how they behave and then consider adding newcomers based on the size of your tank.

Granted, some of this will be trial and error but by doing your homework in advance, you can have a healthy, happy freshwater aquarium in no time!

More Freshwater Aquarium Articles

Article by Richard Gilliland

For many years, the needs and requirements of many types of corals were largely unknown or commonly misunderstood. This resulted in these intriguing life forms being virtually impossible to maintain in aquariums for any prolonged periods of time. However, more recent years have included significant advancements in understandings of corals. We are now able to take advantage of the knowledge gained through relatively recent research, as well as benefit from what hobby saltwater aquarists of yesteryear learned through their experiences.

A popular tank variety of coral is Actonodiscus, or Mushroom. They do not adapt well to neither bright lighting nor heavy currents, so they are often quite well suited for the typical saltwater aquarium. As a matter of fact, their optimum conditions include both fluorescent lighting as well as minimal water movement.

It should be taken into consideration, however, that the Mushroom coral should not be placed next to certain other types of invertebrates and corals. The Mushroom may have detrimental effects on such life forms, and the relevant issues should be thoroughly researched prior to reaching a conclusion about adding the Mushroom to our tank.

Some of the most easily maintained corals and therefore most commonly found in home aquariums include members of what is known as the Polyp family. These include Star, Green Star, and Daisy Polyps. They adapt well to both intense and low level lighting, as well as thrive in a variety of types of currents. These interesting life forms are sensitive, however, to iodine and aluminum oxide, both of which are often found in certain phosphate-removing sponges. The Polyp family is very much considered, however, to be very good starter corals.

Another popular member of the Polyp family is a coral known as Palythoa, more commonly referred to as Sea Mat or Button Polyps, due to its fast growth and appearance. Palythoa has a high reproductive rate and looks like many small circles, or buttons, placed beside one another.

Cladiella, more commonly known as Finger Leather or Colt, are among the most beautiful and adaptable corals that we might place in our aquariums. This colorful and attractive coral responds well to wide ranges of lighting conditions and water currents. Interestingly and seemingly almost miraculously appropriately, however, Cladiella grows optimally in moderate light and current.

A consideration of corals that are appropriate for aquariums would not be complete without the mention of Lobophyllia and Symphyllia. These include several specific types of corals and a wide variety of names of which they are more commonly known. Due to their diverse range of appearances and native locations, more popularly known names include Large Flower Coral and Pacific Cactus Coral, among others.

Article by Robert Hedley

You want to start keeping a pet but you have no idea what really to keep. It can be a confusing decision to make, especially today when we are faced with so many options for pets. Why should you pick one over the other? Why should you opt, for example, for a freshwater aquarium tank over a cat or a dog?

Before you make any kind of decision, it

Article by richard

Once a decision has been made to create and maintain a saltwater aquarium, we can begin considering some choices related to specifically what type of aquarium we might choose to own. Some hobby aquarists choose to identify their aquariums based upon the types of livestock that are used to inhabit their tanks, while some other aquarists choose to classify their tanks based upon the temperature level that is maintained in the water.

A tropical marine tank is the most commonly found type of aquarium. As the name suggests, the temperature is relatively warm, usually about 30 degrees Celsius, which comes out to about 80 degrees Fahrenheit. A warmer tank typically requires much lower levels of skill, knowledge, and experience than do colder tanks. They are therefore universally considered to be the most suitable choices for beginner aquarists.

Tropical tanks often consist of livestock such as reef or fish, and the fish are commonly obtained through pet stores and similar such commercial suppliers. An abundance of warm water fish and additional types of livestock are readily available and easily accessible. However, this type of aquarium tends to be absent of any significant amounts of plankton that are eaten by filter feeders, so this should of course be taken into account while making our choices about populating the tank.

Contrastingly, colder tanks are much less common among hobbyists due to the comparative complexity of the tanks and the limited choices of livestock. The temperatures of a cold marine tank generally range from 10 to 24 degrees Celsius, or 50 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

These aquariums are often considerably less visually appealing than warmer tanks, as their inhabitants are typically found at much lower ocean depths than the colorful livestock that is typical among the tropical tanks. Choices of livestock for cold water aquariums is pretty much limited to fish and crustaceans. These kinds of livestock are rarely found among commercial suppliers. This results in aquarists who maintain cold tanks often being left to rely upon physically acquiring their livestock via their own means, further adding to the levels of skills and resources that are necessary.

Furthermore, appropriate livestock for cold tanks usually have rather specific dietary requirements. However, such fish are often quite hardy, and cold tanks are less costly to maintain than tropical tanks. If the aquarist possesses the required expertise and abilities to populate and maintain the tank, it might indeed be an appropriate choice.

As we go about conducting our research and making our decisions related to our saltwater aquariums, we should take the time to enjoy and benefit from the knowledge we are gaining and the like-minded people we are meeting along the way. The mutual interests held by members of the aquarist community and the subsequent sharing of experiences and insights may very well prove to be as personally rewarding and entertaining as any other aspect of the hobby. Enjoy your journey into the magnificent world of marine life, and take the time to appreciate and enjoy each leg of the journey.

Article by Luke Petterson

Hermit crabs in a saltwater aquarium can be very beneficial if you employ them in the right situations.

As your saltwater aquarium evolves you are going to eventually need to employ some sort of “cleanup crew” in your aquarium.

What is a cleanup crew? This term usually refers to the creatures that will inhabit the substrate and live rock in your aquarium and eat all kinds of stuff such as:

Fish food that has fallen to the bottom of the aquariumFish waste in the rocksAlgae and Cyanobacteria

… and other good stuff that you probably don’t want in your aquarium.

Why Hermit Crabs?

There are many options available when it comes to a cleanup crew in your aquarium. Snails, starfish and crabs are the most commonly thought of bottom dwelling critters.

If you can choose between the snails, starfish and crabs, why choose hermit crabs?

There probably is no clear reason to choose hermit crabs over snails, but these factors might sway you either way:

Availability. You can first of all only buy what is available to you. Maybe your local fish store or other source of critters for your tank only has a certain hermit crab or snail for sale. If you have access to hermit crabs but not snails, you might be tilted that way for that reason.Fun to watch. I find it more entertaining to watch hermit crabs mill about in the tank over snails. Just my preference.Hermit crabs eat. They can be voracious eaters. I find that a hermit crab will eat more algae and junk in my tank than snails… typically.

Smaller hermit crabs will also be able to climb into crevices and get into tight spots to eat junk.

Targeted Cleanup

Certain hermit crabs also eat certain types of algae and other specific nasty stuff in your aquarium. Some examples are:

The Dwarf Yellow Tip Hermit Crab – This hermit crab will eat many types of algae including red slime algae, and it will sift through sand, which is always a good thing.The Halloween Hermit Crab – This hermit crab will eat detritus, uneaten food and lots of algae types including red slime algae. It also sifts sand.The Electric Blue Hermit Crab – This hermit will mow down green algaes and will also go after red slime algae. They can climb rock quite amazingly well and are fun to watch.The Scarlet Hermit Crab – This hermit crab will eat a lot of different types of algae, including green, red and brown types of algae.

This is only a small sample size, but each hermit crab will bring with it it’s own traits. You will want to make sure that whatever type of hermit crabs you decide to add to your aquarium are compatible with what is currently in your aquarium. Other than that, besides looking at what a hermit crab will eat, it might even just comes down to personal preference!

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